Articles & Tips


                                      



Gary has been writing newspaper and magazine articles offering home improvement, safety and maintenance advice since 1989.   Here are some samples of recently published articles you may find valuable:



                                        
STAYING IN HOT WATER AND LIKING IT

 

If this has not happened to you yet, rest assured that sooner or later it will:  You open the tap for a hot shower and out comes nothing but a stream of ice water.  Whether due to a gust of wind, a glitch in the gas supply or an issue with the gas controls, when the pilot flame goes out the water will be cold in about 6 hours.  But most of the time just relighting the pilot flame will get you back into business within 30 minutes and its so easy a novice can do it in less 90 seconds.  Here is how (suggest print these instructions and tape them to the water heater): 

 

                                                

1)   Find the control valve the front of the water heater.  It will have pipes coming into it.

 

2)   Turn the smaller control knob (usually red or black) to the ‘pilot’ position

 

3)   Remove the sheet metal access panel at the bottom of the tank to expose the

      lower service hatch.  There may be an inner panel that needs to be removed as well.

 

4)   Locate the pilot flame orifice.  This can be tricky. Follow the tubes leading from the

      gas control valve through the hatch to their terminus. The pilot flame orifice is at the

      end (use a flashlight if necessary to find the end of the pilot tube).

 

5)   Use a fireplace match or extended lighter to light the pilot flame AT THE SAME TIME

      that  you are holding the red ‘pilot activation knob’ on top of the control valve down as

      far as it will go.  A blue flame should appear within 20 seconds.

 

6)   Continue to hold the red knob down for about 30 seconds before releasing it.

      The flame should continue to burn.

 

7)   Carefully reinstall the sheet metal inner and outer panels.

 

8)  Turn the control knob from ‘pilot’ to ‘on’  You should notice an audible “whoosh” as

      the main burner ignites.  Hot water awaits in about half an hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

                             KEEP UNINVITED VISITORS OUT OF YOUR HOME

 

Regardless of how upscale your neighborhood is you can count on rats and mice looking to set up housekeeping at your place.   No area is immune; these guys are everywhere and are always looking for a way in.  Of course, it’s a lot easier to keep them out with good defenses than it is to get rid of them once they make your house their home.

 

Here are some steps to take to help stave them off:

 

-   Take a walk around your house and look carefully at the foundation for any cracks openings.

     Remember that mice can get through a hole as small as a dime. Patch any holes you find.

-   While walking the perimeter of your home look at your attic vents, foundation vents and crawl space

     access  covers.   Plumbers, electricians, cable, phone and alarm installers, etc are notorious for leaving holes

     in the  screen  mesh that covers the vents and for leaving access covers off or askew.  And

     sometimes the  mesh  just wears out from rust and corrosion. Every hole is an invitation.  Make these

     repairs asap.

-   Do an inspection of any pipes that enter your home.  Installers often leave gaps around the perimeter

     of them that can be an easy access point.

-   Look at the bottoms of all your doors. If you have any gaps greater than 3/8” you have a “welcome”

    sign out for them (as well as for ants, roaches, spiders and cold winter air).  Repair any such openings

    with a door  shoe or sweep.

-  Check your garage door.  The gap under it is often overlooked as a common entry point.  If you see

    significant daylight when the door is shut it can sometimes be adjusted to close tighter. Or, a special

    garage door weatherstrip may be added to the door bottom to create a seal.

-  If you feel comfortable on a ladder check your roof for access points.  Builders often do not bother

    to seal holes under eaves (especially where roof sections come together) as their main focus is

    waterproofing. Rats love these areas as entryways into your nice warm attic.  With a flashlight

    look up into any overlapping areas of your roof for openings and seal them with steel hardware

    cloth mesh.

-   Check the ventpipes that come through the roof.  Many of them have wide openings that are easy

    access into your house for rats and mice.  They need to be screened with steel mesh.

-  Same applies to your chimney. It should have a proper chimney cap which not only keeps animals

    out but protects from sparks that could start a roof fire.

-  Trim any tree limbs that are close to or touching your roof. They act as a bridge onto your house for 4

    legged  vermin.

-  Lastly, check your clothes dryer exhaust outlet. It should have louvers or a flap that closes securely

    when the machine is not in use.

 

Inspecting your house once a year for these issues will really help you avoid these uninvited visitors.

 

 

  

                                    PREVENT A FLOOD IN YOUR HOME

 

One of the most damaging home disasters is to have a plumbing line rupture inside your house.   I have seen literally tens of thousands of dollars of damage occur from a something as simple as crack in a rubber washing machine hose. 

 

Here are some tips to help prevent a catastrophe in your home:

 

- Upgrade those old washing machine hoses to stainless steel jacketed hoses. This is an easy

  replacement that is often overlooked because the hoses are out of sight behind the machine, but these hoses

  are under pressure and can break without warning to flood the entire house.

- Shut the hot and cold valves for the washing machine when not in use. Even if the hoses are in perfect shape the internal water valve inside

  the machine can fail resulting in just as huge a flood.

- Look at the pipes under each sink, especially the vertical pipes toward the rear. Note any tell-tale signs

  of rust or corrosion and replace any pipes or fittings that show the same.   Pipes that are potentially weak often give you a

  visual warning.  ALSO, replace any plastic water supply pipes (the thinner vertical ones toward the

  rear) with stainless steel pipes.

- Replace your water heater if it is over 10 years old.  Even though it may still be working fine the internal

  components begin to wear over time and can rupture without warning (I hate to admit that this actually

  happened in my own home with a 12 year old unit and flooded my office because I did not take my own advice!).

- Pay attention to any new sounds from drains and toilets or changes in the toilet water level and call us to inspect. Sometimes a sewer line backup will give an advance warning.

- Learn how to shut off your water main in case of an emergency. 

- Shut the water at the main if you will be away from home for more than 2 days as damaging flooding often occurs while no one is home to respond to the emergency. 

  And keep in mind that although almost all outside irrigation systems use a water system separate from the house system, it is a good idea to check in advance that your sprinklers still work

  while the house line is off before leaving for an extended period of time.

 

 

  

                              DON'T GET COMPLACENT ABOUT EARTHQUAKE SAFETY

 

 

With our preoccupation with bad economic news these days and the lack of sizeable earthquakes locally in the recent past it is easy to get complacent about quake safety. But as the

images from Italy remind us, we in Southern California are never not vulnerable to a similar fate.    Here are some home safety tips to follow to help reduce the risk of damage

and injury or death:

 

a.  Make sure water heaters, shelf units, armoires, TVs, art pieces, and pictures are properly anchored to

    walls.  This is especially imperative in homes where young children may be present.

b.  Have an automatic seismic gas shut off valve installed if you do not already have one.  This device will

     stop the flow of gas into your home in the event of a large earthquake and is required in many areas.

c.  Learn how to shut your home's the water and power.

e.  Upgrade any solid appliance gas supply lines to modern flexible supply hoses.

d.  Consider adding steel support bracing to unreinforced masonry chimneys.

e.  Apply clear "anti shatter" film to any windows near beds or in escape routes.

 

f.  Create a  First Aid kit with essential medications.
g.   Have the following items on hand at all times:

    -Canned food and can opener.

    -At least three gallons of water per person
    -Protective clothing, rainwear, and bedding or sleeping bags.
    -Battery-powered radio, flashlight, and extra batteries.

    -Special items for infants, children, elderly, or disabled family members.
    -A flashlight and sturdy shoes by your bedside.

 

 

 

 

 

                                 PAYING ATTENTION TO YOUR HOME CAN PAY OFF

 

As a General Contractor I am involved with many repairs of sun or water damaged wood on the exterior of homes.   Admittedly, most wood repair work is preventable with some basic maintenance by the homeowner.

 

Step one is to just pay close attention to your house.  Walk around the exterior carefully examining all the wood surfaces.  Note any  cracks or deterioration in the finish.  Even the smallest cracks will allow moisture to penetrate the exposed wood. This allows further cracking and peeling as the wet wood releases its hold on the paint,  thus causing even further paint deterioration in a vicious cycle that leads to decay or sun damage of the material.

 

Pay particular attention to the glass/wood connections on your windows or glass doors. These are very vulnerable areas. The paint should cover any gap between the two materials to keep water out.

 

Inspect the window and door sills. These surfaces get a lot of sun as they face upward.

 

Check the surfaces of your doors for any cracks, especially in the joints of any mouldings or other details..  Due to expansion and contraction the joints are the first areas to crack on a painted or finished wood surface. And check the door bottom and edges for delamination of the veneer. Once this starts it can quickly destroy the door.

 

Check the spots where wood trim joints stucco or other materials. These areas need to be keep sealed with caulking compound.

 

The good news is that if the problems you find are relatively minor their correction should be something you can do yourself, especially if you have any leftover paint from a prior paint job.  Mix the paint thoroughly then use an artist's brush to touchup cracks.  Keep any work you do confined to as small a profile as possible in case the touchups do not perfectly match the surrounding paint.

 

Maintaining the paint will not only save potentially thousands on future wood repairs but will also extent the life of your existing paint job.


 

 

                                       WHOLE HOUSE FAN CUTS HOME COOLING COSTS

 

At this time of economic crisis most of us are looking for ways to reduce overall household expenses and  power bills in particular.  And with spring and summer temperatures predicted to remain above average this year most of us are particularly concerned about keeping our homes comfortable during the hot season without breaking the bank.  One relatively inexpensive way to do that is with a “whole house” fan.

 

A whole house fan cools your home by forcing hot air out of the house and attic while drawing fresh, cooler air into the house through open windows. 

 

If you have a well vented attic  odds are that a fan will work for you to reduce your hot weather electric bills dramatically.    The fan can lower the temperature in your home by five degrees in just a few minutes, thereby reducing AC usage.

A typical fan installation is in the ceiling of the home below a central section of the attic. The minimum average ceiling opening is appx 2’ x 2’ and there is a fairly unobtrusive white louvered grill mounted flush with the ceiling surface that stays shut except when the fan is operating.

The fan louvers are flush to the ceiling and open/close automatically. 

The fan is controlled by a wall switch or pull chain and does not need to run for much time at all to make a big difference.   Running only 20-30 minutes is all it normally takes to reduce the inside temperature of a house when the outside temperature drops at night.

Our generally cool summer nights make this a perfect climate for these fans. 

Of course the main advantage of a whole-house fan is the cost vs. the savings in air conditioning expenses.  The units are sized according to square footage of attic space to be vented and cost is approximately $1000-1500.  Since installing one of this in my own home 4 years ago our summer electricity usage has been cut in half.

Naturally, nothing good in life is without its drawbacks. The drawback of these fans is that they are a bit noisy because of the volume of air passing through the grill and fan blades.  However, since the fans are only operated for a very short period of time most homeowners find the disturbance acceptable given the advantages offered.